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Markezina Greda

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Post published: 12.07.2012
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Markezina Greda

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12.07.2012.

Ivan Mihalj


MARKEZINA GREDA
is one of the real Dalmatian hot spots, mostly developed in the last few years. New routes are bolted there constantly and in this moment there is about 100 of them, from 5c-8b+.

Markezina greda is a few kilometers long, height from 15 up to 150 meters, so you can find there some multi-pitch bolted routes also. It offers really all styles of climbing – from technical slabs to athletic roofs with tufas. Potential for hard routes is really enormous and the best season for climbing is from spring to fall. This climbing area is located just 10km from Split and we strongly believe that in the following years it will become a well known all over the world.

Much more information and detailed climbing guide for this unique climbing area you can buy here!

MARKEZINA GREDA

List of routes

...

SEKTOR A - JUG
1.MIRAKUL, 6a, 15m, Author: D.Piccini, D.Cikes, FA: D.Piccini
2.CANIBAL, 6c (6a,6c),50m, Author: D.Piccini, J.Purko, FA: J.Purko
3.TOUCHING THE SOUL, 7a (6a,6a+,7a),60m, Author: D.Piccini, S.Whittall, FA: S.Whittall, *
4.SUGAVELA, 7a+, 25m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre , FA: I.Lisica
5.VANA, 6b,(6b,6b) 60m,Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: D. Piccini, *
6.SUPERNOVA,7b (6b+, 7b, 6c+/7a) 90 m, Author: D.Piccini,S.Whittall. FA: 1. And 3. S.Whittall, For this route you need two ropes, 50m. Descend: rappeling.*
7.DARK MATTER, 7c, 25m, Author: D.Piccini, S.Whittall, FA:S.Whittall

SEKTOR B – USKOK
8.KUKA MUKA, 7b, (6c, 7b, 7b, 6b) 100m, Author: I.Matkovic, B.Cujic, FA:I.Lisica, B.Zokic 2015. Route is bolted from ground up.  Descend: walking around or absail from third belay.
9.USKOK, 7a+, 15m,Author: D.Piccini, S.Whittal, FA: S.Bakulic, *
10.THE BEAST, 7a+, 33m, Author: D.Piccini, S.Whittall, FA: S.Whittal, *
11.ANDJIN, 6c(6b,6c,5a),100m, Author: S.Bozic, Equipped with bolts by: D.Piccini, J.Bozic , *
12.V-27, 7a/a+(7a, 6b, 7a/a+,4a) 120m, Author: S.Bozic, I.Borovickic 1984.
Classic route! It was rebolted 20.10.2006. You need 15 quickdraws and 70m rope. Descend by rappeling or walking around. *
13.BULETA, 7c, 20m, Author: D.Piccini, J.Bozic, FA: S.Bakulic 2009.*
14.LJUBLJANSKI, 6a, 120m, Author: Z.Beslin, D.Durjava 1977. Classic route! It was equipped by bolts 13.10.2006. by D.Piccini, J.Bozic. Bolts are placed on places where we found old pitons. 70m rope is enough to climb and rappel down. *
15. ZA JOKU, PROJECT (6b+,?,?),90m, Author: T.Zlodre, H.Lacic

SEKTOR VELIKA RUPA
16. HOROR, 7c, 15m, Author: D.Piccini, I.Lisica, J.Vukusic, FA: I.Lisica
17.FUNKY MANIJAK, 7b, 18m, Author: D.Piccini, I.Lisica, J.Vukusic, FA: I.Lisica, *
18.PRVOMAJSKI ZAJEB, project, 40m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre,I.Lisica
19.FALCO, 7c, 13m, Author: D.Piccini, I.Lisica, FA: S.Bakulic
20.EL CLASSICO, 7b+, 11m,Author: D.Piccini, I.Lisica, FA: I.Lisica, *
+ ext. EL FANATICO, 7c+, 15m, Author: I.Lisica, FA:I.Lisica
21.PERKOV project ,30m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre
22.FARABUT, 7c+/8a, 18m, Author: D.Piccini, FA: B.Zokic
23.KACOT,  7c,  18m, Author: D.Piccini, I.Lisica, FA: I.Lisica
24.HIPNOZA, 8a+ 20m, Author: D.Piccini, I.Lisica, FA: I.Lisica, *
+ MEGDAN, 8b+ 45m, Author: D.Piccini, I.Lisica, FA: I.Lisica 2010.
25.PROJECT, Author:D.Piccini, L.Kivela, I.Lisica
26.BALKAN BOY, 7a+, 12m, Author. D.Piccini, I. Lisica, FA: I.Lisica, *
+ extension, project, 25m, Author: D.Piccini, I.Lisica
27.GOGIN, 7c+(7b,6b,7c+,4a), 90m, Author: I. Matkovic, I. Franceschi, FA: I. Matkovic,
28.APSOLUTNO TVOJ, 6b, 30m , Author:D.Piccini, M.Pehar, FA:D.Piccini
29.SPURIJUS, ?, 35m, Author:D.Piccini, I.Lisica,
30. KONTAKT, 6a, 20m, Author:D.Piccini, A.Piccini, I.Lisica, FA:D.Piccini
+ FULL CONTACT, 8a+, 45m, Author:D.Piccini, I.Lisica, FA:K.Bečan on sight 2014.
31.DESTINY, 7b( 5c,7b), 40m, Author: D.Piccini, S.Whittall, FA: S.Whittall

SEKOR C – GERONIMO
32.CLISSA, 7a+, 18m, Author: D.Piccini, FA: D.Piccini, *
33.BOOMBAR, 6b+(6b+,6a) 70m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Crmaric, T.Zlodre, FA: I.Matkovic(1995. On gear)
34.DANIJELIN, 5b, (5b,5b,3),80m, Author: I.Matkovic,
Old alpinist route from 1986. It was equipped with bolts 2005. 70m rope is enough to climb and rappel down from the second belay.
35.PETINA, 6a, 18m, Author: D.Piccini, G.Rados, FA: D.Piccini
36.BLOKADA MOZGA,7a, 17m, Author: D.Piccini, G.Rados, D.Cikes, FA: D.Cikes
37.BELAJA, 6c, 17m , Author: H.Lacic, FA: D.Piccini, *
38.6 MISECI, 7a, 18m, Author: D.Piccini, G.Rados, FA: D.Piccini
39.TOPLA RADENSKA,6a+,18m, Author: D.Piccini, G.Rados, FA: G.Rados, *
40.TWIST OFF NA USNAMA, 6c, 27m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: D.Piccini
41.MARKEZINOVOD, 7c+, 15m, Author:D.Piccini, I.Lisica, FA.I.Lisica
42.FREAK POWER, 7c, 15m, Author: D.Piccini, G.Rados, FA: U.Perko 2003.
+ extension, 7c+, 25m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: B. Zokic 2007.
43.GERONIMO, 7c+, 15m, Author: D.Piccini, G.Rados, FA: U.Perko 2003. * This is first sport route equipped on this crag!
+ extension, 8a, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: Phillipe Collard 2007.
44.PARTIBREJKERS, 8a+, 22m, Author: D.Piccini, I.Lisica, FA: I.Lisica 2007.
45.NEVERA, 7b+, 15m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: I.Lisica
+extension DAN VELIKOG TRENJA, 8b+, 25m, Author: D.Piccini, I.Lisica, FA: I.Lisica 2009.
46.EL TORO, PROJECT, 10m, Author:B.Zokic
47.PROJECT, ?, 18m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, H.Lacic
48.PROJECT, ?, 18m,Author:I.Lisica
49.NO FRICTION, NO SMILE 8a+, Author: S.Whittall, H.Lacic, FA: I.Lisica 2007, 1st rep.Dani Andrada 2009.
50.BEBITO, 8a, 17m, Author: D.Piccini, I.Lisica , FA:I.Lisica
51.SKYHOOK, 7c(7c,7a,6a) 60m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, S.Whittall, FA: I.Lisica, *
52.PARALIZER, 6b+, 18m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: I.Lisica
53. SELJO BELJO, 7b+, 8m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, S.Whittall, FA: I.Lisica
54. THE QUICK AND THE DEAD, project(7b, 7a, ?) ,50m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, S.Whittall, FA1: I.Lisica, FA2:S.Whittall
55.POSLJEDNJI ROMANTIK, 6a(6a,5c), 40m, Author: D.Piccini, M.Blaskovic, FA: D.Piccini
56.SRCEKO, 6b, 17m, Author: T.Zlodre, FA: D.Piccini, *
57.SURIKEN, 8a+, 20m, Author:I.Lisica, B.Zokic, FA:I.Lisica
58.MUKA JEZOVA, 8a+, 22m, Author: D.Piccini, D.Jurisic, I.Lisica, FA: I.Lisica 2008. ; 1st rep B.Zokic 2011.
59. Project, 7b?, 10m, Author:B.Zokic, M.Lozic
60.SUFIT, 7b+, 10m, Author: D.Piccini, I.Lisica, FA: I.Lisica
61.COKET, 7c, 18m, Author: D.Piccini, I.Lisica, FA: I.Lisica 2009.  *
+ COKET LIMITED EDITION,8b, 20m, Author: D.Piccini , FA:I.Lisica
62.NUSPOJAVA, 7b, 20m, Author: D.Piccini, I.Lisica, FA: I.Lisica, *
63.PRICA ZA LAKU NOC, 8b, 30m, Author: D.Piccini, H.Lacic, FA: I.Lisica 2007, first 8b on  the crag! *
64.CRNO VINO, 8a, Author: D.Piccini, H.Lacic, FA: Tomas Mrazek 2006.
65.DEVIJATOR, 7c+, 10m, Author:V.Puljiz, M.Polic, FA:T.Zulim
66.GLUPAN, 7a+, 15m, Author: T.Zlodre, H.Lacic, FA:I.Lisica
67.LUDAS , 7a+, 25m, Author: D.Piccini, M.Blaskovic, FA: I.Lisica
68.CIOPA, 6c+ , 25m, Author: D.Piccini, M.Blaskovic, FA: I.Lisica, *

SEKTOR D – TVRDJAVA KLIS
69.PROJEKT, ?, 20m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre
70.TVRDJAVA KLIS, 8a,  23m, Author: V.Gucek 2003, FA: V.Gucek 2004.Tomas Mrazek On Sight 2006., First 8a on the crag!
71.BOMBA U GLAVI, 7a, 17m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: I.Lisica, *
72.ZIZOU, 7a, 23m, Author: S.Whittall, I.Lisica, FA: I.Lisica
73.MASTA RADI SVASTA, 6c, 15m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: D.Piccini
+ ANTUNTUN, 7c+, 22m,Author:I.Lisica, FA.I.Lisica
74.STALINGRAD, 7c, 18m, Author: V.Gucek, FA: V.Gucek 2003., *
75.DESERT ROSE, 7a+, 18m, Author: B.Leskovsek, FA: B.Leskovsek
76.CRNA UDOVICA, 6b, 20m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: D.Piccini
77.PARADIZOT, 6b+, 23m, Author: D.Piccini, G.Rados, FA: I.Lisica
78.VJEKIN, 6a, 20m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: D.Piccini, *
79.AS, 6c, 18m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: J.Purko
80.PK SPLIT, 6c+,14m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: I.Lisica
81. PROJEKT, ?, 15m, Author: D.Piccini, I.Lisica
82.PROJEKT, ?, 17m, Author: D.Piccini, I.Lisica
83.PAPAK, 7c+, 18m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: U.Perko 2003., S.Belhaj on sight 2007., First 7c+ on the crag! *
84.LA VIE EN ROSE, 7c, 18m, Author: D.Piccini, S.Whittal, H.Lacic, FA: I.Lisica
85.DUGA DEVETKA, 6c,9m, Author: V.Puljiz, B.Koracak, FA: B.Koracak
86.PEGLICA, 7b, 10m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: D.Piccini, *
87.KROKODILI DOLAZE, 6c, 10m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: I.Lisica
88.PIPI, 6a,8m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: D.Piccini
89.MARULICI, 6a+,8m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: T.Zlodre, *
90.VTNZ, 6a,8m, Author: D.Piccini, B.Karadza, FA: D.Piccini
91.OLUJA SA SJEVERA,6b,11m, Author: D.Piccini, B.Karadza, FA: D.Piccini
92.KRVAVA NEDILJA, 7a, 11m, Author: D.Piccini, B.Karadza, FA: D.Piccini
93. KEEP ON ROCKIN’ IN THE FREE WORLD, 8a+, 15m, Author: D.Piccini, H.Lacic, FA: I.Lisica 2004 First 8a+ on the crag! *
94. UMRI MUSKI, 8a+,  12m, Author: B.Zokic, FA: B.Zokic 2010., 1st rep. I.Lisica 2011.
95. RADNICKA KLASA, 7c, 13m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: U.Perko 2003., First 7c on the crag! *
96. IGLU SPORT, 7a,15m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: I.Lisica
97.PAPRIKA, 6a+, 12m, Author: D.Piccini, T.Zlodre, FA: T.Zlodre

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