Bouldering in Croatia and first efforts were done at the beginning of ‘90’s but they were never taken seriously at that time. That time was still very hard for sport climbers to find there place under the stars, and sport climbing was still very small thing, although growing fast and developing in every way.
First real tracks and recorded ascends in bouldering happened at the Dalmatian bouldering hot spot, at the local cemetery called Lovrinac. First 5 classic boulder problems were done there, as well as first harder grades like 7C and more.
Big progress in bouldering and serious approach started after year 2000. Climbers dedicated to bouldering were practicing only that and started to develop this discipline in the region, discovering new boulders and whole areas.
Dalmatia is a paradise for rock climbers in general, because of so much rocks all around and great climatic conditions through out all year long.
Sad thing for us is that we don’t have any granite rocks existing in Croatia, so even bouldering areas are limestone rock. We have monolith boulders and barriers.
The best season to practice bouldering activity is autumn, winter and spring time. Summer time is not so cool for bouldering due to high temperatures in the air.
Hardest boulder problem existing here in Dalmatia is Pticja gripa, 8A+, unrepeated problem from 2005. Pticja gripa FA was send by Slovenian bouldering legend, Urh Cehovin.
ROUTES | BOULDER PROBLEMS |
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French | Fontainbleau (Fb) | American(Hueco) | English | |
boulder | boulder traverse | |||
5b | 4b | 5a | ||
5c | 4c | 5b | ||
6a | 5a | 5c | ||
6a+ | 5b | 6a | ||
6b | 5c | 6a+ | V1 | |
6b+ | 6a | ... | V2 | B4 |
6c | 6a+ | 6b | V3 | ... |
6c+ | 6b | 6b+ | ... | B4/5 |
7a | 6b+ | 6c | V3/4 | ... |
7a+ | 6c | 6c+ | V4 | B5 |
7b | 6c+ | 7a | V5 | B6 |
7b+ | 7a | 7a+ | V6 | B7 |
7c | 7a+ | 7b | V7 | B8 |
7c+ | 7b | 7b+ | V8 | B8/9 |
8a | 7b+ | 7c | V8/9 | B9 |
8a+ | 7c | 7c+ | V9/10 | B10 |
8b | 7c+ | 8a | V10 | B11 |
8b+ | 8a | 8a+ | V11 | B11/12 |
8c | 8a+ | 8b | V12 | B12 |
8c+ | 8b | 8b+ | V13 | B13 |
9a | 8b+ | 8c | V14 | B14 |
9a+ | 8c | V15 | B15 | |
9b | 8c+ | V16 | B16 | |
9b+ |